Monday, March 9, 2009

Suprêmes de Volaille aux Champignons

Julia Child often recalls her first meal after moving to France of oysters, sole meunière and fine wine as a culinary revelation. She was quoted later in The NYT referring to that moment as "an opening up of the soul and spirit for [her]." I've never been to France, but my soul & spirit opened - so to speak - when I was young, curled up in front of the television listening to Child's infamous sing-song voice. I think most gastronomes can recall a moment in which Child had such an effect on them. Thanks to her endless food exploration, she brought about America's culinary revelation.

There are two cook books that can be found nestled away in most homes: The Joy of Cooking & Mastering the Art of French Cooking. For ages I only had the former. I finally got Child's revolutionary book earlier this year & have been diligently working my way through it since. The quietly coaxed flavors of time spent in front of the stove are championed in French cooking. These Suprêmes de Volaille aux Champignons are no exception. Understated flavors of salty beef bouillon, meaty mushrooms, velvety cream & fresh parsley make for an excellent piece of chicken!

Suprêmes de Volaille aux Champignons
from Julia Child's Mastering the Art of French Cooking
2 medium boneless skinless chicken breasts (a.k.a. suprêmes)
5 tbsp. butter
1 shallot, minced
1/4 lb. fresh mushrooms, sliced
1/8 tsp. salt
1/4 c. beef bouillon
1/4 c. dry white vermouth
1 c. whipping cream
1 tbsp. fresh parsley, minced
big pinch white pepper
salt to taste
pepper to taste
lemon juice to taste

Preheat the oven to 400F. Rub the suprêmes with a squeeze of lemon juice, salt & pepper. Heat 2 tbsp. of the butter in an oven proof casserole until it foams. Quickly roll the suprêmes in the butter & cover. Cook for 15 - 20 minutes.* Check for done-ness by pressing the top of the suprêmes. If still soft return for a minute or two. When the meat is springy to the touch it is done. Remove the suprêmes & set aside.

Pour the bouillon & vermouth into the warm casserol with the remining cooking butter & boil down over high heat until the mixture becomes syrupy. Stir in the cream & boil down again over high heat until the cream thickens slightly. Taste & season as needed with lemon juice.

In a small sauce pan, add the remining butter & heat until foaming. Stir in the shallots & sauté a moment without browning. Then stir in the mushrooms & sauté lightly for a minute or two. Toss into the Volaille À Blanc sauce & pour over the chicken breasts & sprinkle with freshly minced parsley.

*Child's original recipe calls for 6 minutes cooking time. I am not sure how she managed to get the breasts cooked through in 6 minutes at 400F. I checked mine at 6 & they were still pink on the outside. Anyone have any ideas as to how she did this? Magical Julia powers?

Smitten: Fervent Florals

After a successful afternoon of thrifting I came home with some spunky new dishes & a beautiful photo of a tub. Admittedly, a dingy tub isn't the most picturesque thing, but something about the soft pink light reminded me of a photo that hung in my childhood bedroom, so needless to say, I snapped it up.  The dishes, however, are stunner.  Boasting a silly early 70's technicolor floral print, this set will be perfect for quick dinner parties & hosting a plates of cookies. Blame it on spring's onset, but I'm smitten with fervent florals to dress up ordinary dinners in.  Study up on other modern florals at Design is Mine.


Mother's Enchiladas

One of the toughest things about moving across the country is saying adiue to you favorite restaurants.  An unassuming little neighborhood cafe, Mother's, was my home away from home when I was in college.  It was the perfect spot for hearty soups, simple salads, perfect veggie burgers -- they even nailed brunch. It still sticks in my mind when I want to run out for a quick supper.  Until I remember that that quick supper would entail a 1,500 mile road trip.

Too hungry to stick out a two day road trip, I decided to emulate my favorite meal from Mother's:  Verde Artichoke Enchiladas.  These savory enchiladas are stuffed with tangy artichoke hearts & topped with piquant smoked tomatillo sauce. Heaped with gobs of homemade guacamole & black olives, nothing hits the spot better than this Mexican favorite.

Mother's Enchiladas, serves 2 - 3
1/2 dzn. corn tortillas
1 c. frzn. artichoke hearts, thawed & chopped
1 medium poblano pepper, chopped
1/2 yellow onion, diced
1 clove garlic, minced
2 tbsp. olive oil
1/2 tsp. salt
1/4 tsp. pepper
1/8 tsp. cumin
1 tbsp. cilantro, minced
1/4 c. sour cream
1/2 c. tomatillo salsa
1/4 c. black olives
1 c. shredded monterey jack cheese


Preheat the oven to 350F.  Meanwhile, sauté the onion until translucent but not browned (about 5 minutes) in 1/2 tbsp. olive oil.  Once the onions are soft, toss in the garlic & poblano. Cook for 5 minutes more.  Add the artichoke hearts then season with salt, pepper, cumin, & cilantro.  Remove the artichoke mixture to a bowl & set aside.

Drizzle an 8" x 8" baking pan with 1/4 tbsp. olive oil.  Return your pan to heat & drizzle with 1 tsp. olive oil.  In the pan, heat each tortilla through 1 at a time (about 1 minute) before stuffing & rolling them.  This will prevent them from breaking when they bend.  Fill a warm tortilla with 1 tbsp. (give or take a bit) of the artichoke mixture, a bit of grated monterey jack cheese, & a drizzle of tomatillo salsa.  Roll tightly & place the seam on the bottom of the pan.  This should leave you with an enchilada about 1 1/2" thick.  Repeat this process until you have finished all 6 enchiladas.

Top the rolled enchiladas with the remaining tomatillo sauce, sour cream, remaining cheese, & sliced black olives.  Bake for 15 minutes.  Serve with black beans, a mixed green salad, & an ice cold Mexican beer.

Friday, March 6, 2009

Simple Supper: Lemon Pepper Pappardelle with Parsnip Ribbons & Capers

Nothing beats a quick & easy supper. Nothing's quicker & easier than pasta. I imagine most folks round out their weekly menu with a pasta dish or two; I know I do. Pasta can get a bit mundane now & then though, so I like to mix it up with different varieties of pasta.

Aptly named, pappardelle, a broad fettuccine like egg noodle that nears an inch wide, gets its name from the Italian verb "pappare" meaning "gobble up." Traditionally prepared with wild boar or hare sauces, I prefer this light pasta tossed with simple fresh herbs, olive oil, & sharp parmigiano reggiano. Though not commonly used state side, this noodle is incredibly popular in Italy -- there are even festivals in it's honor. Sounds a little better than the Fire Ant Festival I grew up with.


Lemon Pepper Pappardelle with Parsnip Ribbons & Capers
2 c. cooked parpadelle pasta
1 tbsp. capers
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 medium parsnips, sliced in ribbons*
1/8 c. fresh basil, chopped
1 tbsp. olive oil
1/2 lemon, juiced & zested
salt to taste
pepper to taste

Bring salted water to boil in a medium pot. Boil the pasta for 8 minutes for al dente. Meanwhile, in 1/2 tbsp. olive oil sauté the parsnips* & garlic until soft. Toss in the capers & lemon juice and sauté a moment longer.

Once the pasta had cooked through, drain & toss in the pan with the parsnips, garlic, & capers. Sprinkle with fresh basil & lemon zest. Salt & pepper the dish to your taste. Finally, drizzle with the remaining olive oil & toss to combine. Garnish with freshly grated parmigiano reggiano.

*The parsnips can be cut into ribbon like strips using either a mandoline, vegetable peeler, or sharp paring knife. Just remember to watch your fingers!

Thursday, March 5, 2009

Yellow Chicken Curry

Cooking with friends is so so satisfying & that's just what I got to do last night! Laura came over and after sipping up a few mugs of almond tea we made a batch of creamy yellow curry. Chopping up almost all the veggies I had on hand, we tossed them in a giant pot & left them to simmer in the kitchen. Knowing there's something cooking away on the stove is oddly comforting to me. Especially if it's a big pot of spicy, sweet curry!

The only thing better than cooking with friends is cozying up around the dinner table & having a meal with them. It's not often enough that we (as a generation, as Americans) spend time in one another's homes. When traveling after college I was lucky enough to spend a month in Amsterdam with some dear friends. Several nights a week, without fail, they went to each others' apartments & made a meal together. Then curled up on the floor, around coffee tables, or at the kitchen counter they tucked into their homemade goods & hashed out the day. It was so simple & so humanizing. Not a bad way to end the day, I'd say.

Yellow Chicken Curry - serves 4 - 6
2 boneless & skinless chicken breasts
1 lb. yukon gold potatoes, sliced in 1/4" pieces
1 dzn. baby bell peppers, chopped coarsely
1 yellow onion, chopped coarsely
1/2 red onion, chopped coarsely
1 large zucchini, chopped in 3/4" - 1" chunks
2 cans coconut milk
4 - 5 cloves garlic, crushed
1 tbsp. fresh basil minced
1 tbsp. olive oil
3 tbsp. yellow curry paste
salt to taste
pepper to taste

In a medium pot, bring salted water to a boil & boil the chicken breasts until cooked through (about 25 minutes). In the last 7 minutes or so, toss in the potatoes to soften them. Drain the chicken & potatoes, then set aside.

Drizzle the bottom of a large pot with olive oil & saute the yellow onion until translucent - salt them a bit to help sweat out the liquids (about 6 minutes). After the onion has cooked through, toss in the garlic cloves & bell pepper. Saute for 6 - 8 more minutes until the peppers are soft. Finally, toss in the zucchini and saute for another 6 minutes or so until the have begun to soften.

While the vegetables are cooking through, shred the chicken with a fork. Once all of the veggies have softened a bit, toss in the chicken & potatoes. Pour in both cans of coconut milk the add the curry paste, red onion & basil. Stir to incorporate. The milk should turn a rich ocher-y shade. Let simmer very slowly for another 20 minutes (at least!) for the flavors to fully blossom (so to speak).

Serve over basmati or jasmine rice.

Wednesday, March 4, 2009

Strawberry Thyme Butter Cookies

As much as I like to bake, I must admit, I really don't do it enough. Hauling out the Kitchen Aide, specific timing, even more specific measurements - it can get tedious. But the end result - warm gooey cookies, a fluffy cake, or fresh loaf of bread - is more than worth while.

I often find myself swooning over Tartelette & Cannelle et Vanille's stunning baked goodies, so, inspired by their masterful treats, I decided to whip up a batch of cookies. Tartelette's beautiful strawberry thyme shortbread fit the bill perfectly for snacks for Ray's first year review exhibition. Adapting the recipe to my favorite butter cookies, these strawberry thyme drops were perfection. So delicious! The plate emptied in a matter of minutes.

Strawberry Thyme Butter Cookies
1 1/2 c. unsalted butter, softened
1 c. sugar
2 egg yolks
2 tsp. vanilla extract
3 c. all purpose flour
1 pinch salt
1 splash almond extract
1 splash vanilla extract
2 sprigs fresh thyme, minced
1 c. strawberries, sliced 1/8" thick


Preheat your oven to 250F. Place the strawberry slices in one single layer on a parchment paper line baking sheet and let them dry in the oven for about one hour. Let them cool completely. Chop the dried slices in small pieces and set aside.

In an electric mixer whip the butter until light. Cream in the sugar a little bit at a time. Beat in the egg yolks one at a time then add the vanilla & almond extract. Gradually add the flour and salt. Finally fold in the strawberries & thyme. Chill the dough for one hour covered in the refrigerator.

When the dough is firm, preheat the oven to 350F. Roll 1" balls between your palms and place them appx. 1 1/2" apart. Bake for 15 - 20 minutes or until the edges are golden brown. Cool completely on a cooling rack.

Tuesday, March 3, 2009

Rosemary Boursin

I always looked forward to having company over growing up. It promised happy chatter, hugs & most importantly, good food. My dad would whip up various hor d'ourves & spread them across the tall bar in our kitchen. Despite our best efforts, we never did venture out of the kitchen. We always stayed belly up to the bar waiting to see what else he would crank out. My favorite snack to cross the bar was his boursin (which was, until relatively recently, garlic cream cheese to me).

True, you can pick up a box or boursin at the market, but it pales in comparison to home-made. Making it from scratch only takes a few moments & you can tweak the recipe to fit your whims. Don't have red onion on hand? Fine, use green instead. Don't have rosemary? That's okay, use oregano. And of course, you get the satisfaction of knowing you whipped up a snack that will satisfy with your own two hands.

Rosemary Boursin
1 16 oz. block cream cheese, softened
1 8 oz. stick butter, softened
4 -5 cloves garlic, finely minced
1/4 tsp. or less curry powder
1 tbsp. red onion, finely minced
1 tsbp. parsley, finely minced
1 tbsp. rosemary, finely minced
1 tbsp. (give or take a bit) black pepper, ground
pinch cayenne
pinch curry powder

In a medium bowl, whip together the cream cheese & butter with a fork. Add the garlic, onion, curry powder, cayenne pepper, rosemary, & parsley. Fold to incorporate. Top with ground black pepper & refrigerate until ready to serve.
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